[PHOTO: Stuart Franklin]
Question: My game is improving, and I’m starting to think I need more wedges than just a pitching wedge and a sand wedge. Any guidance on how to go about adding wedges and what clubs they should replace?
Answer: My dear friend, if I could only add the hand-over-the-face emoji. Here’s the deal: not only should you be adding wedges, but having more wedges is tremendously advantageous to everyday players. Here’s why, along with some tips to help you make some choices.
Let’s start with why. You’re missing greens left and right. You hate less-than-full swings. Having clubs you can swing from various distances inside 100 metres helps. Plus, you’re probably hitting your 5-wood as far as your 3-wood and your 5-iron as far as your 4-iron. Those clubs are ripe to take out and replace with wedges.
Now for the assist. We acknowledge that deciding on wedges is one of the nightmare scenarios in the equipment world as there is so much to consider. Loft gapping, bounce angles, sole grinds, even shaft preferences are not immediately intuitive. Course conditions may impact the ideal wedge for you in a particular situation, too.
We’ll start with the low-hanging fruit. How many wedges? Ideally four, including pitching wedge, and if you have a strong-lofted pitching wedge of 43 degrees or less, five is not out of the question. That said, a pitching wedge, 50, 54 and 58-degree is a good make-up and provides plenty of shot options.
Now let’s get to some details. What about shafts? The tendency is to just go with whatever comes with the club but that’s not always the right call. If Jordan Spieth’s clubs offer any insight, the move would be more than a single shaft. Spieth’s 46-degree Titleist Vokey SM10 wedge has a Project X 6.5 shaft – the same shaft he has in his irons. His 52, 56 and 60-degree wedges, however, have a softer Project X 6.0 shaft, which adds feel. The theory being lower-lofted wedges are utilised more as full-swing clubs that benefit from having the same shafts as the irons, while the sub-flex shafts help on greenside shots. For you, consider matching the shafts of your irons to your 50-degree, as that also will probably be a full-swing club.
Now let’s delve into the nitty-gritty: grinds and bounces. It can be dizzying, but let’s start with the fact they are two very different things, so we’ll take them one at a time, starting with grind.
The simple explanation of wedge grind is that it is the removal of material (known as “relief”) from the sole of the club in an effort to enhance turf interaction at impact and versatility. This allows for more creative shot-making around the green.
The type of grind you need is often dictated by swing type and course conditions, along with the type of shots you like to play around the greens. Some grinds offer heel and toe relief, making it easier to open the club up. Others feature trailing-edge relief that reduces the effective bounce. Conversely, some grinds provide more bounce in the leading-edge area.
Wedge grind and wedge bounce in some ways go hand in hand, and you need to understand the effect one has on the other. For example, a grind that makes it easier to open the face will create additional bounce. A grind that promotes more of a square face lessens the bounce.
Which brings us to bounce. Perhaps the most misunderstood thing in golf is that bounce is connected to the width of the sole. No! A wide-soled club can have very little bounce. We won’t bore you with the science, but sole width is not it. Still, there are things you need to know.
Swing type should play a part. There’s the digger-driver who is steep, taking big divots. This player needs something with a lot of bounce (10 degrees or more) even on a higher-degree wedge like a 60-degree. The sweeper-slider – somebody who sweeps the ball off the turf – needs a wedge with a low bounce (4 to 6 degrees) as it allows the club to get down into the ball for better contact. The driver-slider is in between the two, a golfer takes more of a dollar-bill divot and might mis-hit thin or fat. That player needs more of a moderate bounce, like 7 to 10 degrees.
One more tip: you should frequently check your lob wedge for groove wear. Titleist master wedge designer Bob Vokey advises replacing lob wedges more frequently – every 75 to 100 rounds – since they experience the most wear due to their high loft and usage on spin-heavy shots, like flops, bunker shots and low checkers. As grooves wear down, spin control diminishes, making early replacement essential for consistent performance. Bottom line: you might need to swap this club before your other wedges.
